So here I am sitting in our castle room writing our last blog entry for our trip.  Tomorrow we leave on the plane fairly early so this is the last time I will write from Ireland.  

Yesterday was a wonderful day both in weather and activity.  As I reported we took a very peaceful walk at about sunrise outside our thatched roofed B&B.  It was so peaceful, at least in the morning on Inishmor.  We had a lovely breakfast and then after I wrote we headed out.  We walked over to Dun Aengus.  First we walked over to where the site is, about 15 minute walk.  But then we had to hike up the hill to the fort.  This was far longer and more strenuous, up a fairly steep but gradual incline.  We were early so the only ones there besides us were the cows.  This is again a very old fort build at least 3000 years ago on the cliff of the island both for defensive and housing.  They are excavating the different levels.  We got to the top where there is an opening.  We went in and to our surprise there were cows there.  I don't think they were supposed to be in the fort area, it appeared that a gate along the way had been left open.  Anyway, they let us share their space and I had David remove his red sweatshirt as there was at least 1 bull present.  We stayed for some time so that David could take lots of photos.  While we were there a whole tour group of Japanese woman arrived with only one man- I think he was the guide as he spoke English and chatted with me about where we were from.  The women were very giggly and chatty, most wearing improper footwear for such a climb.  They all proceded to lay down on the edge of the cliff to look over the edge.  They all sort of lined up- it was quite funny.  Then they all started down again- they were there maybe 15 minutes tops.  

David finally took enough photos and we also went down and hung out in the little village at the bottom- very little.  We had been told that we could try to either get a horse and trap or a mini bus to take us around the island for a tour.  However, we had not booked ahead which I guess we should have done.  All the horses were busy- they bring people over from the ferry to the fort and then around.  There were more people than usual as the day before a rare bird was sighted on the island and a large group of birdwatchers arrived both the night before and this morning.  They were very amusing- all of them running around with telescopes looking for this one bird that had never been seen on the island before.  They would all hang together and then if someone saw something, they would all run after together.  

We did finally secure a ride-  joined a mini bus tour but had to hang around for awhile.  Ate, shopped, hung.  Then we had a short tour of the island, did see one seal laying on a rock, some more ruins and then back to the town with the ferry.  Had to hang there- there it was crowded, not the peaceful area of where we had slept.  Lots of groups from the day ferry.  Returned to the mainland on the 5pm ferry, arrived at our B&B for the night in Galway.  

Later we went back into Galway for dinner and music.  We had already been there so were a little familiar.  The other day when we were there I had asked a local man with a guitar what the best place was for music.  He had mentioned a place called "The Crane Bar" which was on the west side- not the best side of Galway.  Anyhow, we had dinner on the east side, a fancier place than our usual pub- and not as good.  Then we attempted to find music.  The eastside pubs were very crowded and not the best.  So we decided to head over to the west side to try to find the Crane- our car was parked there anyhow.  After asking several bouncers from other pubs directions we were very successful and was it great.  The Crane has music every night- always Irish.  On this night upstairs in a sweaty and crowded space there were two rows of musicians facing each other and playing on and on traditional Irish tunes.  We were told that people need to know what they are doing but there was certainly a hierarchy  of talent.  We sat, enjoyed and chatted with those around us.  My Irish neighbor shared many good tidbits about himself and Ireland.  

This morning we left Galway and drove straight here to Kings Court and the Cabra Castle.  That is where we are staying tonight.  It is not far from the Dublin airport- about one hour.  It is a real live castle now made into a hotel.  We are in a room in the main courtyard with walls all around.  The grounds are lovely.  David walked a bit around this afternoon but I just crashed and rested.  Trying to avoid the cold trying to come.  We will have dinner here tonight and then leave early tomorrow.  

So, I will close now.  Don't know if anyone has been reading this but I have been enjoying writing it, sort of keeping a running commentary of our time here.  Ireland is a beautiful country, the people are very warm and caring.  I have never once been given rude treatment and always knew that my needs to be met.  We do plan on returning here at sometime in the future but would do it differently next time.  Less travel, more staying longer in certain areas, probably skipping Dublin and staying on the west coast.  I know that David has not posted many photos- the blog makes it difficult but if you are interested in seeing more of the photos you can go to his website where they will eventually be posted.  The website is David Aimone Photography.  Or you can go look at unedited work at Flicker.  Here is the link.  

David did mention that he never heard the phrase "Top of the morning to you" so I will say it now.

Ellen

So as I write this new entry, again several days later I am sitting in a window seat in the Man of Aran B& B on Inismore, an island off the coast of Ireland.  I will try to catch you all up on the past several days and tell you a little about where we spent last night.  I have a few minutes before David insists that we get started on our day.  

On Wednesday night, our first night in Doolin after getting terribly soaked at the Cliffs of Mohr we went to our B&B.  We had chosen from the book a working farm, thought that would be nice and something a bit different.  They are a cattle farm, very nice couple with 3 boys, 2 in HS and one in Primary.  Rooms were smaller than usual but clean.  We had 2 single beds as their queen was filled.  After a rest in the room we went down to Doolin for dinner at a pub- what else and to hear music.  We were in for a real treat.  Pub food was good- we went to Fitz- something.  But the music that began at about 10 was phenomenal.  The group is called "Foolin in Doolin" and of course we bought a CD.  There were officially 3 of them, one on guitar, one on banjo and this amazing Irish Pipes player that would just close his eyes and play on and on.  They also had a fourth on the Bodran- percussion.  We say and enjoyed for quite some time and the next day the music followed us in the car.  David will probably post here a video so you can also enjoy it.  The Pipes player told me that he goes every July to the Catskills to give a workshop on playing the Irish pipes and showed me how they work.  

On Thursday we took a less crazy day since we were staying 2 nights in Doolin at our farm with the cattle and also donkeys.  There was a lovely view out the back of the farm of the ocean.  We spent most of the day traveling the Burrin.  This is an area and road around the peninsula there with a most interesting landscape.  It is hard to describe- sort of feels like you are on the moon as it is very rocky but different than most places.  We also were able to see some examples of the Dolmen stones that frequent over here.  One large Megalithic monument, an area that they are excavating.  We went to the visitor center and learned all about it.  Also, saw several towers- there was one right near where we were- Rapunzel let down your hair- that I guess now is a rental holiday home.  The monument that we saw was supposedly about 4- 6 thousand years old.  Pretty amazing stuff.  

Also, did something really great on Thursday- Brought our laundry to be done.  Luckily there was a place that we could bring it. Just drop off and then pick up at the end of the day.  All for only 15 Euros.  So now we have clean clothes.  Took some time to walk around Doolin at the end of the day- some cute shops.  Went for an earlier dinner at another pub but did not stay out that late.  Decided we needed to rest.

On Friday, being a beautiful sunny day- sort of- we decided to try for the Cliffs of Mohr again to see if we would have better luck.  And so we did.  It was lovely and we were really able to have a much better experience this time.  Many opportunities for some lovely pictures, I also took some.  We could go up the O'Brien tower and walk all over.  It is truly a spectacular setting- these cliffs over the water.  It is something that is absolutely not to be missed for anyone coming to Ireland.  Spent some time there also interacting with these wonderful Irish school girls there on a field trip from Dublin.  The kids here are chatty and polite- really lovely to talk with.  One girl was having fun with her rain boots stuck in the mud- she really loved it- these were HS girls, I think but she had a blast.

Leaving the Cliffs we headed over the way to Galway with just a few quick stops along the way.  Galway is really a very sweet city.  We spent several hours walking around the streets- they have a closed area for just walkers with lots of shops, pubs, and tea houses.  Stopped for some coffee and sat again chatting with an Irish family.  The kids had just got out of school.  Let the shower go by.  Walked a bit more.  We then continued our journey here.  We had to go through the southern edge of Conemarra to get to the ferry point.  Exploring Connemarra will have to wait for our next trip as we are running out of days.  We took the Ferry out to Inismore- the largest of the Aran islands.  We did not get on the ferry till 7pm so we started out as the sun was setting and arrived here in the dark.  We were able to take a taxi to our B&B.  David had booked this as the place has a thatched roof and was build originally as the set for the movie, "The Man of Aran."  When he had booked it he had asked me if I would like to stay at a place with a thatched roof.  Of course I said yes.  We arrived late but the hosts, Maura and Joe fed us a dinner of wholesome good food.  Woke up this morning to seeing the ocean right from our window.  I made David get up, not to early, for an early morning sunrise walk- hope he will post some pics here.  It is very beautiful and peaceful.  I am ready to move here with my knitting and pottery.  We had a breakfast and now we are off to see Dun Aengus, an old fort on the island.  We have the day here until the ferry leaves at 5pm when we return for the night to Galway.  Now David has his coat on and is wanting us to be on our way.  So more tomorrow. 

-- Ellen

Yesterday being Wednesday we left our lovely Dingle B & B went into Dingle for a little tour.  David wants me to first tell you about our lovely breakfast on Wednesday.  Breakfast haven't been all that great since we are hesitant to try a full Irish Breakfast which could include Black and White blood sausage.  However, we have tried to enjoy Hot Irish Oats.  So on the menu yesterday they had porridge with cream or porridge with Bailey's.  Pat, our host insisted that we have the Porridge with Bailey's.  It was delicious- Of course since I don't like Guiness I have been partaking on Bailey's frequently either on ice or in my coffee but it was really nice in porridge.

After walking around Dingle for a bit, we started heading out of town and took the Connor Pass over the peninsula to the other side. This was a most beautiful drive with gorgeous scenery, and of course very narrow roads with little to turn off for pictures except at the very top where there is a parking area.  The whole area is so inter

Stopped several times to take photos and then made our way to the ferry at Tarburt.  This helped to cut down on the drive but so windy on the ferry.  Afterwards we headed toward the Cliffs of Moher.  When we got to the cliffs it started out ok but unfortunately it very quickly as we were walking to the tower began raining heavy and sideways.  More like a little hurricane.  It was most difficult to continue but we did make it to the tower where everyone was huddling around the little gift shop.  They had actually closed the tower due to high winds so we could not go up.  We hung around hopping it would clear as it frequently does but finally had to give in and return to the visitor's center for a hot cup of tea and scone.  Again, hoping it would clear we toured the visitor center but it never cleared enough for David to take good pictures so we left and headed to our next B& B in Doolin where we are now.  More about that later in the next entry.

-- Ellen

Again I have been remiss in making sure I write everyday.  Not as easy to do as you would think when you are traveling all the time.  Anyhow, to continue our journey. 

On Tuesday morning after spending time in Killarney and the ring of Kerry and hearing that wonderful pub music we left our B &B and drove to the Dingle Peninsula.  We went straight to Dingle, stopped briefly at our new B&B to be greeted by a lovely host in Patrick.  The B&B had a great view of Dingle Bay which we could see from the sun room along with various sheep.  We only stayed long enough to get our key and then headed to drive along Slea Head drive.  This is the most amazing drive along the coast with spectacular views and interesting things to do. We started out along the shore and stopped at Ventry Bay.  A very nice beach where I got my foot wet trying to touch the Atlantic ocean.  Not really beach weather as it as been quite chilly and very windy here.  You will notice that by the coats we are constantly wearing.  

From Ventry Bay we continued on and stopped at Dunbeg Fort.  This was very interesting as it is a fort that is down by the water on a cliff and was built about 500 BC.  It is something to see all these very, very old structures all over the peninsula knowing that people had to build them at some time.  There are stone walls all over dividing up the fields, stone enclosures called behives and forts of sorts.  Fort Dunbeg is pretty well together and you can walk down into it.  

Following a light lunch at the fort's cafe and a change of clothes for Ellen since I fell in the mud there we continued on our drive, stopping at times for many pictures by David.  Both of scenery and walls, cattle, sheep and other items.  We stopped then at the Heritage Center for the Blasket islands in Dunquin.  I will refer you to google to learn more about the Blasket Islands and their people.  Interesting but too much to describe here.  

Our last stop before we decided to return for a nap was the Gallarus Oratory, an example of a primitive architectural church.  Afterwards we went back, had a rest and tea and later on went into Dingle briefly to have dinner and an earlier night.  

So I have been remiss in writing the last 2 days.  First on Sunday, as the internet at the place we stayed was flaky and last night due to being out too late and coming back and only wanting to go to sleep.  So now I will try to catch up from the last several days and hope to have the order correct.

On Sunday morning we left Dublin.  First went to get our rental car.  All went according to plan but as we were about to leave the car place I noticed that there were dents and scratches on the car.  I went inside as you normally do to make sure that they know about that so you don't get charged.  The response from the salesman was " They are all like that so don't worry you have the insurance anyhow."  Apparently all the rental cars have dents and scratches.  This will become understandable later on in this blog and those of you who have been to Ireland before will know now.

Left Dublin and made our way to Glendalough.  This is the site where St. Kevin lived as a hermit and later started a Irish Monastic Center.  It is very interesting and beautiful, well worth the trip.  There is education of the history of the area, monasteries and also a lovely walk up the hill around the lakes.  Many old ruins and gravestones dating back over 1000 years.  Really old things in this area.  We spent considerable time there both in sun and rain walking and exploring.  Made it all the way to the site of St. Kevin's cell but  that was not as interesting.  

Leaving Glendalough we really started to experience the narrow roads of Ireland as well as the super motorway.  Most rural and secondary roads are really only wide enough for one and 1/2 cars or a large SUV.  However, they are 2 way streets with no shoulders, very windy and hilly.  Hence the many dents and scratches although so far we have not put any new ones on our rental.  I did hit one side mirror in a town going through  though. There is also a large motorway we were on and the speed limit is 80 miles per hour, all going very fast.  So some opposites on the roads.  We made our way slowly and with some mix ups over to Blarney where we crashed at a B& B there.  Very friendly and nice. Had dinner in Blarney which is next to Cork in County Cork although we never did go into Cork which we were told was a nice city but not worth the time.

Monday morning started out with a lovely breakfast at the B&B.  We were very busy on Monday and I can't believe how much we did.  Started out at the Blarney Castle as our host recommended that it was well worth the time instead of going into Cork.  It is a really beautiful castle and grounds with lovely gardens, a poison garden, dungeons, turrets and the like.  It is also the home of the Blarney Stone as in Kissing the Blarney stone.  Since we were there we decided to go ahead and kiss it although we both agreed that I did not need any more gift of gab and David says he didn't connect with the wall itself.  It was a silly thing to do but since we were there we took it on.  

We left there to head over to Killarney and the Ring of Kerry.  We thought we were going on a bigger road so Ellen volunteered to drive.  However, the GPS took us on all these Rural routes, again raising the anxiety level and mindfulness of driving to a new height.  We made it to Killarney and started down the Ring of Kerry before too long.  A really beautiful drive over.  David did take over as we began our journey.  First stop was the Ross Castle, again a large medieval castle but lovely area again.  They really knew how to take advantage of their geography back then.  Overlooks a lovely large lake.  We knew that we wouldn't be able to do much of the Ring of Kerry as it was already 2pm so we decided to head down to Kenmare after consulting with the guide at Ross Castle. The ride down was quite roller coaster like but beautiful again, we stopped along the way several times for views and pics.  Kenmare is a sweet smaller town, we caught a late light lunch there, stopped into the first of the sweater stores we will go into and walked around town.  Back down to Killarney, stopping again.  One of the last stops was Torc Falls, also well worth the walk- it was short.  A really old forest with many moss covered trees, definitely bringing on the feel of Lord of the Rings- the forest where Treebeard lives- I don't remember the name.  

Back in Killarney we checked into our B&B for the night, had a rest and then headed out to Killarney for dinner and music.  I finally felt like I was in Ireland last night.  First we arrived, parked and walked dt.  On the street there was an a cappella group of older Irish men engaged in singing songs in Irish.  Lovely although could not understand.  Dinner with local salmon and mussels and then pub hopping although ended up in a pub listening to traditional Irish music- 4 men with a violin, guitar, concertina and Irish pipes.  It is more traditional down here in County Kerry than up in Dublin and while tapping along I felt good that we had arrived in this beautiful country.

Several things I have noticed here.  First, always bring along a raincoat or umbrella.  We have gotten caught several times already without during those intermittent showers they have all day.  Many times when it is sunny it is rainy as well and the clouds do come up quickly at all times of the day.  Second, everyone here is the most friendly sorts, going out of their way to be helpful and hospitable. It is sincere as well and just lovely.  

Today we are off to the Dingle peninsula and then tomorrow we are going to Doolin and the Cliffs of Mohr where we will stay 2 nights thankfully hoping to slow down a bit.  Next time I won't be hopping around so much and don't know if I would bother with Dublin but I'm glad we went there first.  Bye for now.  Hope you all in the States are having a good day.  

Ellen

So today was a much better day for us.  It helped that we slept about 12 hours last night.  Didn't wake until about 9am.  So caught up and raring to go.  After breakfast at the hotel we returned to the bus type tour of yesterday.  Here is Dublin there is a bus for touring called, "Hop on, Hop off.  For a set price for 2 days you can get on and off the bus that goes all over Dublin with a running commentary from the drivers.  They run every 10 minutes so it is a great was to see Dublin both from the bus and off.  

We started the day though again at Trinity College but this time had a tour from a very nice and funny Irish grad student complete with a robe almost like Harry Potter.  He gave a tour of the College- very old place.  Then we went to see the Book of Kells and the old library.  Even older than the college.  Hoped on the bus, hoped off at St. Stephen's Green which is a lovely park complete with many ducks and flowers.  David was on a mission to go to a camera shop on the other side of the park to buy film for his camera.  He had found this shop on line and since it is difficult to take film on the plane- it gets ruined if scanned- so we had to track down this shop.  

On the long way there-of course we went the wrong way 2 young men approached us wanting to know from us if in the 60's the world was black and white or in color.  This was only around noon but they were well toasted by then and not making much sense.  Of course, one of them did tell me that I should excuse him since he was quite drunk.  This I could tell. 

Following that excursion we returned to hop on the bus again and went to St. Patrick's Cathedral- A large, very old church.  Pretty and interesting with tombs and statues as well as stained glass.  Next we went to the Guiness Brewery.  Hoped off with every intention of going in.  However, it was getting late, the line was long and David decided he could have a Guiness elsewhere in Ireland and I detest them so we didn't go in.  Sorry for all that were hoping we did.  

Later in the evening we went out with a very new lovely couple of friends.  David has been internet corresponding with a man here who does photography.  They had arranged for a sort of blind date with us and his wife.  It was lovely, and we had a wonderful time for dinner and pub hopping.  David managed a Guiness & a Busmill's, Ellen a Jameson Whisky and some Bailey's.  Ended the night back here.  

Tomorrow, we leave Dublin, get our rental care- please hope we don't crash driving around Ireland.  We head south and west and will be staying tomorrow night in Blarney near Cork.  Although we don't plan on kissing the stone.  More tomorrow.  Hope you enjoy our travels.

— Ellen

Well, the day we left, I (Ellen) think it was yesterday- anyway 9/27 was a long travel day.  We left Saratoga Springs around noon to first drive to Boston where we were getting our flight.  Arrived at the airport, long term parking.  Getting through security was a hassle, as I was stopped several times before they let me through.  The body check revealed that there was something sinister in my pants pocket- OH no.  It was a penny.  The bag checked also revealed some hand lotion- a threat to national security.  Oh the joys of air travel.

After a delay and a not so long flight in which we did not sleep a wink- however, I did watch 2 movies while David's TV set did not work at all- we finally arrived in Dublin at the Wee hours of dawn- Notice the work wee as I am now in Ireland.  Shuttle bus into Dublin to arrive at the hotel about 7am.  We could check in but only leave the bags, left not to get a room till later.  Dragged our tired bodies around the hotel area- very busy here so early in the morning with everyone off to work.  We walked a bit in Trinity college- it is really very pretty, had a light breakfast, back to the hotel in hopes of getting our room but not yet ready.  Then we did a bus tour- just sat on the bus and tried to stay awake around Dublin.  

We are definitely in Europe, much older things than USA.  Anyway, did finally get our room about 1pm here- 8am ny time- and took naps after being up over 24 hours.  I'm sure we will be more active tomorrow and doing more than just the travel part.  Everyone very helpful and friendly here- a strange phenomenon is that several times old men have approached us to chat about who knows what.  Did smell the Guiness brewery- David wants to go back there tomorrow- I don't know if I will be able to stand the stench.  Will write more when there is more interesting tales.

— Ellen

All packed. Finally all packed and ready to go.

I'd love to bring my large format film camera, but I'll have to settle for a digital SLR and a medium format hasselblad.  Well, I'll still have good quality in a reasonably compact package.

As far as film for the Hasselblad, I'll purchase that in Dublin at Gunn's Camera shop.  I've confirmed that they have what I need in stock!

On Thursday evening, 9/27, we fly overnight to Dublin to begin our 10 nights in Ireland.  This is our first trip there; in fact this is the first time Ellen and David will travel to Europe together after all these years!

We will be arriving in Dublin via Aer Lingus in the wee hours of the morn, and then a shuttle will take us to the city centre.  We'll be posting photos and a travelogue on these pages.  You're more than welcome to let us know how we're doing!

— David